Touring J.C. Newman Cigar Co. in Ybor City

J.C. Newman factory floor 

There was a time when the Tampa area was home to more than 150 cigar factories. The collective annual output of hand-rolled cigars by these outfits exceeded 500 million. That's a lot of smoke. Today the number of cigar factories in the entire country has dwindled to a single enterprise -- the J.C. Newman Cigar Co. 

J.C. Newman operates out of the historic El Reloj Cigar Factory in Ybor City and is still run by the Newman family. Tours are offered to educate visitors about the process of making both hand-rolled and machine-made cigars. It's a real slice of history. 

Rehydrating tobacco leaves

So much information was imparted to us over the course of the tour that I can only touch on a few of the highlights here. Where to start? 

It all begins with the tobacco. Most of J.C. Newman's tobacco comes from Nicaragua. In fact, the company has an operation there with more than 800 employees. The Ybor City location has a mere 150 workers.

Tobacco leaves that arrive in Ybor from Esteli have been dried. Before they can be used in the manufacturing process, they have to be rehydrated. This solitary employee had this task on the day we visited. I cannot imagine how mind-numbing this work -- crucial as it is -- must be. The job is even more isolating because his post is in the basement of the factory. Wait a minute. A basement in Florida? Yes, at an elevation of 40+' (a result of dredging), J.C. Newman's building includes a basement. Moving right along...

Filler room with worker checking the tobacco isn't rotting

There are three parts to every cigar -- the filler, the binder and the wrapper. No part of a cigar is more important than the others. The components have to work in tandem in order to achieve the desired taste. 

We got a peek into the room where the filler was aging. It looks a lot like compost, doesn't it? The tobacco is aged here for three to five YEARS before it's ready to be used. The longer the aging process, the more refined the taste. I'm jumping ahead, but once the cigars have been rolled, they "rest" for at least six months in a temperature controlled room so the flavors can blend. You can't be impatient if you're a cigar manufacturer. 

Working with a rehydrated tobacco leaf

The business of hand rolling cigars hasn't changed much over the years. Women tend to be faster because their hands are smaller. Still, their output is maxed out at around 120 cigars a day. By contrast, machines can pump out up to 5,000 cigars daily. Given this differential, it's no surprise that hand-rolled cigars are more expensive. The caliber of the tobacco is the other primary factor affecting the price of a smoke.

Speaking of money, every time we stopped to talk to an employee, our guide said, "We're costing you money today, [insert name here]." It was a bit guilt-inducing. I didn't specifically ask, but workers must be compensated based on their numbers. The lower the production the lower the company's -- and the employee's -- bottom line. Employees are aware of each other's numbers because each worker's output from the previous day is listed on a chalkboard for all to see. There's nothing like a little healthy competition to make people work harder. 

Roller at work

Almost every employee was listening to music or whatever podcast struck their mood that day on their ear pods. It's an effective way to stave off the boredom from the repetition of their tasks. But what about the days before this technology existed? 

Until 1931, J.C. Newman workers were entertained by a lector -- or reader -- who would read books to the employees. (If you've seen a production of "Anna and the Tropics," you're already familiar with this practice.) Our guide shared that some of the company's cigars got their names from these books, including "Romeo and Juliet" and "Monte Cristo." 

The practice ended because the company didn't have control over what the lector read. (This seems odd, but it's what we were told.) Female employees were offended -- and left the floor -- when he read "El Cornudo" ("The Cuckhold.") The company did not approve of "Das Capital" as a selection. No translation required there. In the many years between 1931 and the 1980s when portable walkmen came out, the workers must have engaged in conversation to keep themselves sane. Very civilized, but I suspect they lost some focus as a result. 

Given the inefficiency of making hand-rolled cigars, why do it? It goes back to the tobacco. People rolling by hand can use entire tobacco leaves in their process while machines can only accommodate shredded tobacco. Using an entire leaf ensures a more consistent taste throughout your smoke. 

Once the cigars have been produced, they of course have to be packaged. I enjoyed seeing the art on the cigar "cabinets" on display. (And here I thought they were just boxes.) For the past three years, J.C. Newman has collaborated with the LeRoy Neiman Foundation to use one of Neiman's paintings for the band around a special editor cigar and the related cabinets. This year's LeRoy Nieman Collectors' Edition cigars feature the painting "Jazz Horns." Purchasers of an entire cabinet received a lithograph of the print in addition to the cigars. The cigars are $22/each, which sounds pricey to me. But the profits from sales of these cigars go to a good cause -- arts education in Tampa public schools. For more information on this collaboration, click here.  

And so concludes my foray into the world of cigar manufacturing. It didn't make me want to smoke a cigar, but it did give me a greater understanding as to why cigar making is considered an art. For more information on J.C Newman, click here. And if you're interested in an unusual outing, click here for their tours and other offerings.