"Kimono: The Triumph of Japanese Dress" at the St. Pete MFA

Furisade Set and Obi (1927)

The St. Petersburg Museum of Fine Arts is now home to an exhibit showcasing more than 100 kimonos from the late Edo period (1603-1867) through the Showa era (1926-1989). The word "kimono" translates into "something to wear." While the phrase makes me think of an old pair of jeans and a tshirt, the kimonos on display are about the furthest thing you can imagine from my go-to clothing choice. Each kimono is not only a work of art; it also provides a window into cultural traditions very different from my own. 

Take, for instance, this furisade set and obi from Fuji Musume (which translates into "Wisteria Maiden.") Fuji Musume is a dance that evolved from the Kabuki tradition. You probably know that Kabuki has been performed almost exclusively by men since it originated nearly four centuries ago. But did you know that this tradition stemmed from the fear that female dancers would be too provocative for male audience members? Insert your own thoughts about that concept here. But I digress.

In this particular play, a man is walking down a tree-lined street and comes upon a painting of a "wisteria maiden." She embodies the romance and beauty associated with the wisteria plant, represented by the white flowers in the kimono. While the man stands admiring the work, the maiden becomes infatuated with him and steps out of the painting so they can be together. Sadly, it's a story of unrequited love, and the woman eventually returns to her place in the work of art. Interestingly, paintings of the wisteria maiden were often sold as good luck charms for newly-married couples. I think there's a bit of a disconnect there. 

 

Boy's Miyamairi Kimono (first half of 20th c.)

The style of this kimono also has significance. "Furisade" translates into "swinging sleeves." This type of kimono is still worn by young, unmarried women on formal occasions, including on their "coming of age" day (typically when they turn 20). The sleeves range from 33" to 45"; the longer the sleeves, the greater the chance of love and happiness. This is because the wearer can use those swinging sleeves to catch good luck and prosperity. There's a lot packed into this one piece of clothing. 

Children, too, traditionally wore kimonos and still do for special occasions. I particularly liked this miyamairi with its smiling dragon. The word "miyamairi" means "shrine visit," which is a traditional Shinto rite of passage for infants. A month or so following a child's birth, the family takes the baby to a shrine of the local guardian deity to give thanks for a safe delivery and to pray for a healthy life for the child. Historically, only the child's father and fraternal grandparents participated in this ceremony because the mother was presumed to be overwrought with post-partum grief. Hmm. You might wonder, as I did, how a kimono like this would fit an infant. The answer is that the baby is swaddled in the kimono as if it were a blanket.  

Man's juban (first half of 20th century) 

The owner of the kimono shown here might be a bit embarrassed to have it displayed for all to see. It is a male juban intended to be worn under a man's more formal kimono. Think of it as a type of underwear. 

Jubans are typically made of silk or a lightweight cotton that would be comfortable against your skin. The juban worn by men were often more decorative than the kimonos worn over them. 

This juban depicts Futabayama Sadaji, a sumo wrestler who won 69 consecutive bouts. Although his reign ended in 1939, it's a record that still stands today. The art of sumo (essentially wrestling) began in Japan as a Shinto ritual to entertain the gods, who are believed to live in the dohyo or ring. Each dohyo represents purity and consecration, and a new one is made from clay for each tournament. Before a bout, the surface of the dohyo is covered with sand and the wrestlers throw salt on it. It's another part of the purification process. For more on the rituals of sumo wrestling, click here.  

Before I sign off, I would be remiss not to mention that all of the kimonos in the exhibit are on loan from private collections in the Tampa Bay area. What a surprise -- and treat -- it would be to walk into a home and find some of these gorgeous articles of clothing on display. Thanks to the generosity of these collectors for sharing their passion with their community.

"Kimono: The Triumph of Japanese Dress" runs through June 8 and is well worth a visit. There are still a couple of events relating to the exhibit coming up. The talk on June 7th with one of the collectors looks particularly interesting. Click here for more information. Perhaps I'll see you there.