36 Hours (More or Less) in Santiago

After months of anticipation (15 months to be exact), it was finally time to depart on my trip to Easter Island, Patagonia, the Chilean fjords and Tierra del Fuego, with short stays in Santiago and Buenos Aires along the way. Our first stop was Santiago, the capital of Chile. We covered a lot of ground in the short time we were there, and it was both fascinating and fun. To try and keep up with posting, I'm not going to dig in quite as much as I'd like. But I did want to capture in writing - and share -- the new worlds I'm discovering and experiences I'm having. So here goes!

Sky Castanera -- A visit to Sky Castanera is practically required for first timers to Santiago. At 984' tall, the building is the tallest in all of South America, and the observation decks on the 61st and 62nd floors give 360 degree views of the city and its surrounding environs. Seeing the snow-capped Andes mountains in the near distance was particularly striking for a woman who lives at sea level. 

Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela -- My friend Libbie and I are doing trip through Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT). It's the first organized tour I've been on, and the approach definitely has its advantages. No stress over booking flights or hotels or worrying about transportation. (Sadly, there are no sherpas, though, which I could sorely use.) Most importantly, the itinerary has been carefully crafted to ensure you hit the highlights of each stop. Our visit to Santiago included an informative walking tour with a local guide who shared some of his city's history with us. 

The stop at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela was a highlight of the tour. The Cathedral anchors Obradoiro Square in an area populated with both green space and government buildings. Most of the Chilean population is Catholic, so it's no surprise the Cathedral is extremely elaborate. There are flying buttresses and ceiling frescoes and multiple side chapels. The one detail that was overlooked, however, was putting doors on the confessionals. Yes, there the penitent must kneel, exposing herself and her sins not only to the priest but to passersby. Just imagine the eavesdropping opportunities. The priest's dispensation of forgiveness and allotment of Hail Marys and Our Fathers can also be heard by those with a keen ear. What is with that???!!! 

Cousino-Macul Winery -- After doing a bit of personal reflection (or not), it was time to head to Cousino-Macul Winery. The winery officially opened for business in 1878 under the leadership of Isidora Goyenechea. The businesswoman extraordinaire took over the operation after the death of her husband Luis Cousino. International exports of the winery's offerings -- with a focus on its cabernet sauvignon -- began in 1927. 

Our tour began in the midst of a room filled with giant casks that once each held 32,000 liters of aging wine. Wow. From there we went deeper into the winery and related museum, with plenty of opportunities for those who didn't mind getting a little buzz on in the morning to taste the vineyard's production. I was sorry we didn't have time to take the bike tour of the entire property. 

Sculpture of Allende in Obraidoro Square

From Allende to Pinochet -- OAT tries to include an opportunity for people to learn about the history of the place they are visiting from people who experienced it first hand. This approach includes -- perhaps even focuses on -- history that continues to be controversial today. And so we heard from a woman whose family fled the country after Augusto Pinochet seized power in a coup against democratically elected Socialist President Salvador Allende. 

Rather than try and relay that history here, I'll instead include a Wiki link that provides a brief history of the coup along with information about the United States' involvement with Chile at that time. The U.S. was opposed to Allende's policies given their impact on U.S. companies doing business in Chile. How active the U.S. was in its support of the coup is unclear. At the end of the day, Allende was dead, whether by suicide or at the hands of Pinochet's men remains unsettled.  

Information is still being revealed today about the extent of the brutality of the Pinochet regime. The Guardian newspaper reported that more than 40,000 people were killed by death squads, "disappeared," imprisoned or tortured during Pinochet's 17 year reign. The official numbers issued by the Chilean government are significantly lower. Chile has prosecuted some of the perpetrators of these crimes, and these efforts continue today. 

Why, you might ask, is this slice of Chilean history a controversial topic today? Because politics -- even when as bloody as the Pinochet regime -- is always polarizing. Discussions of Allende versus Pinochet continue to be off limits for the Sunday dinners many families share. The conversation struck a little too close to home for my liking.

And on that intense note, I'll close this post. Our whirlwind visit to Santiago was a terrific way to start our tour. From there, we traveled to Rapa Nui (Easter Island). Stay tuned for posts about the moai and the Birdman competition.