Cuba! Exploring Old Havana

Rafa in the Plaza de San Francisco

Christopher Columbus was busy back in 1492. That was the year he "discovered" both America and Cuba. Plaza de San Francisco is one of the places in Havana where the resulting Spanish colonialism is very evident. With Rafa as our guide, we learned about the area's history and architecture. It's worth noting that while Rafa works at the wonderful Hotel Casavana where we stayed, his degree is in architecture. Another seriously under-employed Cuban. 

Once the Spanish took control of Havana, they built as many religious structures as possible, including the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi that looms large in Plaza de San Francisco. What better way to remind the "natives" they were no longer in control? 

New social classes emerged that replicated European traditions, complete with titles. Mansions were built around the square that still stand as a reminder of Havana's colonialist past. 

And here's a tidbit that caught my attention. Rafa noted that Spain had control of Havana from the time of Columbus' arrival until 1898. Except, that is, for an eleven month period in 1762-63 when the Brits assumed control after the Seven Years War. The Brits would have stayed longer, but Cuba offered up Florida in exchange for Havana and the English jumped at the offer. An interesting slice of Florida history. Now back to the Plaza de San Francisco. 

Street artist in Havana

The Plaza served as the central marketplace of the city. It's not hard to imagine vendors peddling their wares in the wide open space of the square. In fact, there's a bit of that still going on today. 

I spied an artist across the square and stepped away from Rafa's history lesson. How could I resist? The artist was working on this small watercolor with one of the old cars for which Havana is known parked in front of the Capitol. He finished the Cuban flag as I stood there, so I walked away happily waving my acquisition with $10 less in my wallet. For a better image of the painting, just click on the photo. It was the first of several works of art I brought home. 

Suzanne and Orlando

The various plazas are a natural place for entrepreneurs of all kinds to make a little money. We were serenaded at one stop by this musician. Suzanne being Suzanne engaged with the guy and found out that his name was Orlando. Given another five minutes, she would have had his life story. 

Orlando was the first street performer we encountered on our trip. We'd been told by previous travelers to bring lots of dollar bills to give out, but we couldn't quite figure out the mechanics. Do you just randomly walk up to someone and give them a dollar? With average incomes the equivalent of $15-$20/month, the need is there, and tourists are the best source of additional funds. Still, it sounded awkward, not to mention paternalistic and condescending and whatever other uncomfortable adjective you can think of. So it made sense when Pedro said it was appropriate to put some money in the hands of street performers but not someone just walking down the street - or the beggars we encountered. We were happy to do that. And yes, dollars are the preferred currency rather than the Cuban peso. 

Jerry chats with Eusebia Leal 

As I mentioned in my previous post, Havana is filled with public art that ties in with the history of Cuba. This sculpture of Eusebio Leal provided an engaging photo opp for our group, with Jerry having a particularly lively interaction with the man credited with saving Old Havana from decay. 

Leal was a self-educated man. He dropped out of school after sixth grade to get a job and help support his mother. But he was someone who loved to learn, and he eventually got into university based on the knowledge he learned on his own. What a self-starter. And how appropriate that this sculpture shows him carrying some of his beloved books. 

Leal became Havana's city historian and directed the restoration project of old Havana. Over the course of 20+ years approximately 300 buildings -- from cathedrals to restaurants to hotels -- were brought back to their former glory. Renovating these structures didn't just make Old Havana a more beautiful place. It also helped promote the tourism on which Cuba relies so heavily. The area was deservedly declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1982. For a great article about Leal compliments of Smithsonian Magazine, click here. 

And with that, Old Havana was in our rearview window. We had people to see and places to go. 

Next up: Sculpture from Havana's Museum of Fine Arts